From Cuzco, a paved road climbs to the pass and continues over the pampa before descending into the Urubamba valley. It crosses the river by bridge at Pisac and follows the north bank of the river to the end of the paved road at Ollantaytambo.

It passes through Calca, Yucay and Urubamba (also reached from Cuzco via Chinchero. Since the valley (altitude 2,800 metres) is 600 metres lower than Cuzco, it is a good area to acclimatise, physically and culturally, before going up to the former Inca capital.

Pisac is 30 kilometres north of Cuzco (Cusco), and high above the town on the mountainside is a superb Inca fortress. Pisac has a 'Sun' morning market, which comes to life after the arrival of tourist buses around 10am and it is usually over by 3pm.

Pisac has other, somewhat less crowded, less expensive markets on Tuesday and Thursday mornings. It is best to get there before 9am. On the plaza is the church and a small, interesting Museo Folklórico. The town is worth strolling around and has many souvenir shops on Bolognesi. The local fiesta is held on 15th July.

The walk up to the ruins begins from the plaza, past the Centro de Salud - the path goes through working terraces. The first group of buildings is Pisaqa, with a fine curving wall.

Then climb to the central part of the ruins, the Intihuatana group of temples and rock outcrops, in the most magnificent Inca masonry. Here are the Reloj Solar ('Hitching Post of the Sun'), now closed because thieves stole a piece from it, palaces of the moon and stars, solstice markers, baths and water channels.

From Intihuatana, a path leads around the hillside through a tunnel to Q'Allaqasa, the military area. Across the valley at this point, a large area of Inca tombs in holes in the hillside can be seen. The end of the site is Kanchiracay, where the agricultural workers were housed, road transport approaches from this end. The descent takes 30 minutes.

At dusk you will hear, if not see, the pisaca (partridges), after which the place is named. If you're lucky you will also see deer. To appreciate the site fully, allow five hours if going on foot. The site is open from 7am until 5.30pm. There is transport up to the archaeological site on market days only, at other times you must walk at least one hour uphill all the way. Horses and taxis are available.

Pisac to Urubamba-Calca (altitude 2,900 metres) is 18 kilometres beyond Pisac. The plaza is divided in two. Urubamba buses stop on one side and Cuzco and Pisac buses on the other side of the dividing strip. The Fiesta de la Virgen Asunta is 15th and 16th August. There are some basic restaurants around the plaza.

It is a two-day hike from Cuzco to Calca via Sacsayhuamán, Q'enqo, Puka Pukará, Tambo Machay and Huchuy Cuzco (a small ruined Inca town) with excellent views of the eastern Cordilleras, past small villages and along beautifully built Inca paths. There are many places to camp, but take water (Calca to Huchuy Cuzco is a stiff three to four hours' climb). At Coya, between Calca and Pisac, there is a fiesta during 14th to 18th August.

There are cold mineral baths at Minas Mocco, which is 30 minutes walk along the Urubamba, and also at Machacancha, which is eight kilometres east of Calca. Three kilometres beyond Machacancha are the Inca ruins of Arquasmarca. Walter Góngora Arisábal, a guide and kombi driver does trips to Cuzco and Pisac. Tel: 20 2124.

Yucay, three kilometres east of Urubamba, has two grassy plazas divided by the restored colonial church of Santiago Apóstol, with its oil paintings and fine altars. On the opposite side from Plaza Manco II is the adobe palace built for Sayri Túpac (Manco's con) when he emerged from Vilcabamba in 1558. In Yucay, monks sell fish milk, ham, eggs and other daily products from their farm on the hillside.

Like many places along the valley, Urubamba (altitude 2,863 metres) is in a beautiful setting with snowcapped peaks in view. The main plaza, with a fountain capped by a maize cob, is surrounded by blue painted buildings. Calle Berriozabal, on the west side of the town, is lined with pisonay trees. The large market square is one block west of the main plaza. The main road skirts the town and the bridge for the road to Chinchero is just to the east of the town. Visit the ceramic workshop of Pablo Seminario, whose artisans use pre-Columbian techniques and designs.

Tarabamba, six kilometres west of Urubamba, is where a bridge crosses the Rio Urubamba. Turn right after the bridge to Pichingoto, a tumble-down village built under an overhanging cliff. Also, just over the bridge and before the town to the left of a small walled cemetery, is a salt stream. Follow the footpath beside the stream to Salinas, a small village below which are a mass of terraced Inca salt pans, which are still in operation (there are over 5,000). The walk to the salt pans takes about 30 minutes. Take water, as this side of the valley can be very hot and dry. May and June are the harvest months, with local festivals and many processions following ancient schedules. Urubamba's main festival, El Señor de Torrechayoc, occupies the first week of June.

Ollantaytambo. The Inca town of Llacta on which the present-day town is based (altitude 2,800 metres), is clearly seen as a fine example of Inca canchas (blocks), which are almost entirely intact and behind the main plaza are still occupied. Entering Ollantaytambo from Pisac, the road is built along the long wall of 100 niches. Note the inclination of the wall, it leans towards the road. Since it was the Incas' practice to build with the walls leaning towards the interiors of the buildings, it has been deduced that the road, much narrower then, was built inside a succession of buildings. The road out of the plaza leads across a bridge, down to the colonial church with its enclosed recinto. Beyond is a plaza (and a car park) with entrances to the archaeological site, which is open from 7am to 5.30pm.

The so-called Baño de la Ñusta ('Bath of the Princess') is a grey granite and is in a small area between the town and the temple fortress. Some 200 metres behind the Baño de la Ñusta, along the face of the mountain, is believed to have been a small temple or observatory. A series of steps, seats and niches have been carved out of the cliff. There is a complete irrigation system, including a canal at shoulder level, some six inches deep and cut out of the sheer rock face (under renovation).

The flights of terraces leading up above the town are superb and so are the curving terraces, following the contours of the rocks, overlooking the Urubamba. These terraces were successfully defended by Manco Inca's warriors against Hernando Pizarro in 1536. Manco Inca built the defensive wall above the site and another wall closing the Yucay valley against attack from Cuzco, these are still visible on either side of the valley. The temple construction was started by Pachacuti, using Colla Indians from Lake Titicaca, hence the similarities of the monoliths facing the central platform with the Tíahuanaco remains. The Colla are said to have deserted half-way through the work, which explains the many unfinished blocks lying about the site. Admission is by combined entrance ticket which can be bought at the site, if possible, arrive very early at 7am, before the tourists.

Recently, a pyramid has been identified on the west side of Ollantaytambo main ruins, discovered by Fernando and Edgar Elorietta. The two explorers claim it as the real Pacaritambo, from where the four original Inca brothers emerged to found their empire (an alternative creation legend). Whether this is the case or not, it is still a first-class piece of engineering with great terraced fields and a nice 750 meter wall which aligns with the rays of the winter solstice, on the 21st of June each year. The mysterious pyramid can be seen properly from the other side of the river. This is a pleasant and easy one-hour walk west from the Puente Inca, just inside the town. There are great views of the Sacred Valley, the river and the snowy peaks of the Verónica massif as a backdrop.

A major excavation project has been carried out since 1977 under the direction of Ann Kendall in the Cusichaca valley, 26 kilometres from Ollantaytambo, at the intersection of the Inca routes. Only nine kilometres of this road is passable by ordinary car. The Inca fort, Huillca Raccay, was excavated in 1978 to 1980 and work is now concentrated on Llactapata, a site of domestic buildings. Ann Kendall is now working in the Patacancha valley, northeast of Ollantaytambo. Excavations are being carried out in parallel with the restoration of Inca canals to bring fresh clean water to the settlements in the valley. Local festivals include The Sun, following Inti Raymi, and a colourful festival, the Ollanta-Raymi. On 6th January there is the festival of Reyes (the Three Wise Men) with music, dancing and processions, whilst around 26th October a two day weekend festival with lots of dancing in traditional costume and many local delicacies for sale. Transport - both the tourist and local trains stop on the way to and from Machu Picchu. For those travelling by car and intending to go to Machu Picchu, it is recommended to leave the car at Ollantaytambo railway station.